The land that lies in ruins

There are places here, that are long gone. There are some that are long deserted, forgotten and remain only in memories. Some, however still stand guard - like Saalau.

Saalau Castle was founded in December 1352 due to the increasing frequency of Lithuanian invasions. By 1355 the castle was already being used as a defensive structure. On the opposite bank of the Pregel, the castle of Norkitten was founded. The coexistence of two castles made it possible to more effectively resist sieges and exercise control over the territory. In the summer of 1376, the Grand Duke of Lithuania Olgerd and Keistutis with three detachments invaded Nadrovia. The detachment led by Keistutis reached Wehlau and on the way back, moving north of the Pregel floodplain, besieged Saalau Castle. As a result of the assault, the castle was captured and burned. However, it was soon restored.

From 1380 to 1525 no significant information has been preserved about Saalau. In 1525, Saalau was first mentioned in the text of the Treaty of Krakow about the transfer of Prussian territories to the hereditary fief of Albrecht of Brandenburg, and after the secularization of the order, the castle and amt of Saalau were transferred to the canons who remained in Königsberg. The canons “voluntarily” left the Cathedral in Königsberg and received from Albrecht the right to reside in Saalau. It was on them that the burden of maintaining it fell. However, the canons soon admitted their own financial insolvency, while Albrecht’s duchy in those years itself experienced severe financial difficulties and soon the castle was put up as collateral. At the same time, the castle underwent some modernization - additional rooms were added to the northern and eastern sides, and the turret, which had become unnecessary, was dismantled to the level of the outbuilding roof. According to some reports, the reason for the reconstruction was a fire that occurred in the castle.

In the 19th century, the castle became state property. Until 1900, its premises housed an amtman's dwelling, a cheese factory in the basements, and a distillery and brewery in the northern building.

After 1945, the castle was not used in any way, it was actively destroyed and today it is a ruin with the remains of the walls overgrown with bushes and trees.

In 2000, it was acquired by a private individual, there is a project for its restoration and the organization of a museum, but as of the summer of 2024, no work is being carried out in the castle. It can be accessed by bus from Kaliningrad, by the way. The closest point would be Chernyakhovsk, and the castle itself is at Kamenskoye.

Of all the places I've seen, I think it's Saalau that remained etched in my mind. It is still alive, although to most it's just a ruin - but if you're lucky enough, you'll hear the chants echoing in the wind - right there, where the small chapel would have been.

Saalau is poignantly beautiful in the late autumn, when the mists arise, covering the land in dusty golden glow. Then something otherworldly happens, and it comes back to life, for a brief moment in time - and the shadows of the praying knights are there, as once before.

The land is tied to them, by blood and prayer, and some places hold more memories than others - Saalau is no exception. It was established during the reign of Grand Master Winrich von Kniprode, and he still visits, as he used to do - although he was buried at Marienburg, the Order's main stronghold in Poland, his presence here is tangible - if you know how to listen, watch and observe.